One of the first signs that autumn is not far away is the heavy dew on the lawn and this should be our trigger signal to start lifting, dividing and replanting some of our herbaceous perennials while the soil is still warm.
Herbaceous perennials have persistent rootstocks, rhizomes or tuberous roots which produce foliage and flower stems on an annual basis. Old foliage dies back in varying degrees during the autumn and winter months and this dying back leaves and unsightly mess as well as providing an ideal hiding place for pests, slugs and snails.
Except for certain plants which produce seedheads and stems that are still attractive during the winter months, it is generally best to remove all old growth before the onset of spring. Any plant e.g. Crocosmia and Paeonia that has shoots which are below the soil and so protected from cold, can be cut back to ground level, whilst perennials such as Asters should be cut back less severely. Half hardy sub-shrubs like Penstemons and Salvias should not be cut back at all until the spring.
Certain of the herbaceous perennials need to be divided in the autumn whilst others respond better if divided in the spring. Perennials should be divided every 2 to 3 years and this will ensure health and vigour is maintained. It is important to ensure that once the division has been done that the plants are well watered. It must be remembered that alongside with taking cuttings divisiobn is an ideal way to increase your stock of plants.
Some perennials suitable for autumn division are Acanthus, Bergenia, Campunula, Dianthus, Geranium, Paeonia, Phlox, Ranunculus, Veronica.
Many gardeners feel the onset of winter as being a gloomy time, but September is an ideal month to start planting up winter containers . It is the tail end of the growing season and will alllow plants to become established before the cold weather arrives.
There are numerous containers available in a range of sizes and materials and all aspects of these material sholud be taken into consideration before planting for the winter. If you are going to use a wooden container you should line the container with a plastic liner to prevent the wood from rotting. Fibreglass and plastic containers do not give delicate roots as much frost protection as a wooden container and terracotta containers, to be effective must be "frostproof".
In planning the container it is good to plan an eye catching combination, but remember that whilst flowers are colourful they damage with heavy frost and so the use of tougher foliage helps to keep the interest. Plants grow more slowly in the winter and so can be placed closer together in the container with larger plants positioned towards the back and then the front filled with lower, contrasting plants.
Plants that can be used for your winter containers are winter Pansies which are hardy and very colourful, winter-blooming Heathers which will give a long lasting colour and of course Ivy for an evergreen highlight. Focal points can be made with dwarf conifers and small shrubs especially those with berries (Skimmia, Gaultheria or Solanum psuedocapiscum). Novelty items such as ornamental cabbage which has pink and green foliage will introduce a decided item of interest. (All these plants can be sown during the summer in Sherwood Rootrainer Seed Trays and planted out in September in the containers)
Winter containers require very little maintenance and only occasional watering. In especially cold snaps it will be necessary to either move the container indoors or else wrap it with bubble wrap. Containers should be raised off the ground for good drainage.
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