Garden pests in the form of moles, rabbits, snails and slugs, pigeons, creepy crawlies and even cats and dogs are one of the most discouraging fights that we have to put up with in our lovely gardens. So much hard work goes into getting the plants and vegetables ready for display and it can be annihilated almost overnight, but we should not let these pests get the better of us because there are things that can be done which will humanely move them away and not upset the balance of nature.
MOLES
Moles are pests which are very hard to get rid of.
Moles live underground and burrow holes or runs. Some species are aquatic or semi-aquatic. They have cylindrical bodies covered in fur with small or covered eyes and the ears are not generally visible. They feed on small invertebrate animals living under ground.
Male moles are called boars, females sows and a group of moles is called a labour.
Moles eat worms and they keep a fresh supply of worms in their underground "larder". The mole will only eat enough worms to satisfy its appetite and any remaining worms are immobilised by biting their heads off before storing. It has been proved that a mole can detect, catch and eat food faster than the human eye can follow (in under 300 milliseconds!).
In some countries moles are considered an agricultural pest , whilst in Germany for example they are a protected species. Weasels and voles may also use mole tunnels to gain access to enclosed areas or plant roots. It is interesting that whilst the mole is found all over the UK Mainland it is not found in Northern Ireland and it has been around a lot longer that the land structure we have today, about 7,000 years longer in fact, when the British Isles first separated from the land mass of Europe. At that time these islands were covered in forests, which is the natural habitat of the mole, and so with time the mole has migrated to where the earthworms are most abundant - just below the surface of well watered lawns!
Moles burrow in lawns disturbing the earth and raising molehills which cause aesthetic problems hence the classification of the mole as a pest. They do however benefit the soil by aerating and tilling it, adding to its fertility. The mole does not actually eat the roots of the plants, but it is the tunnelling activity which takes away the soil from the roots which kills the plants. A mole can shift around 6 kilos (13lbs) of soil every 20 minutes. (Equivalent to a human weighing 70 kilos shifting approximately 4 tons of soil in 20 minutes!)
A Mole has 44 teeth, the most teeth listed for any other mammal in Britain. It is fiercely territorial, and uses its canine teeth to fight with other moles which invade its space. The mole is usually a solitary animal and his territory can cover more than a quarter of an acre so it is highly unlikely that the average garden will be occupied by more than one mole. The boar will only briefly leave his territory to seek a sow for mating (around February or March) and even then he is met by agression from the sow, but if accepted will mate and then a few hours later return to his lonely territory. The sow rears the young and within 5 weeks after birth she drives the young out to get started on their own tunnelling system. It is only at this time of the year that you might see moles scampering around as they search for new territory and food.
There is a product on the market which has been tried out in Sweden and has proved effective in keeping moles out of an area for up to two years. It is an organic bulb which when planted gives off a scent which the mole does not like. This bulb does not kill the mole, just diverts it away from the area. It is called the Sork Anti Mole Bulb. Other methods include the pouring of a strong Jeyes Fluid and water mix into the run and making a barrier band across the lawn for about 10 days or until the moles have moved on!
SLUGS AND SNAILS
One of the principle pests around at this time of year is slugs and snails. In Great Britain there are 24 different species of slug and about 12 of these species can be found in your garden! Slugs generally eat decaying vegetation, but will eagerly tackle young and delicate plants. Slugs are nocturnal creatures and as they do not have a shell they need to keep moist at all times so that they do not dehydrate and die, this means that they are particularly active after it has been raining or in wet areas of your garden. During the winter months it is a good idea to rake the soil surface and this will expose the slug eggs to frost damage and prevent hatching. At all times fallen and damaged leaves should be removed from tender plants which means that you are removing a prime source of food. Predators such as frogs (maybe make a small pond), and hedgehogs should be encouraged. If you have the space, ducks and chickens are excellent slug and snail hunters.
Over and above these measures there are products available which make it uncomfortable for slugs and snails to cross and encourage them to leave the area alone. These products are environmentally friendly and include the use of vermiculite and barrier products which can be placed under or around vulnerable plants and are copper impregnated. The copper gives the slug or snail a slight shock similar to the shock experienced with an amalgam filling and this causes the slug to feel uncomfortable and to look for its food elsewhere. If you are principally bothered by slugs then please refer to the article Slugs in your Garden.
There are also biological control products which are made up of nematodes which attack the slug and kill it. These products are entirely natural and are safe for use with no harmful effect on wildlife, children or pets.
The use of Copper tools in your gardening will also reduce the slug population as a residue of copper is left in the soil each time you dig or rake.
DEER AND RABBITS
The next pest that is especially discouraging is the not so lovely bunny rabbit and if you live near wooded land, deer. Deer and rabbits between them will eat virtually every garden plant, young shrubs and trees and certainly all your vegetables. So what do you do? One method is to fence your entire garden off with rabbit or deer wire fencing to a height of 8 feet (for deer) and 3 feet (for rabbits and buried to at least 18” down for the prodigious rabbit digger!). Not everyone wants their garden to look like Fort Knox and this can also be an expensive deterrent which is not always the solution.
If deer or rabbits are the problem then it is advisable to principally grow plants that are deer and rabbit proof. These plants are known and proven because of their taste, smell or spiky structure. Some of these plants are Marigolds, Lupins, Agapanthus, Aloe, Arum Lilies, Cactus, Red Hot Pokers, Iris, Daffodils, Lavender, Jasmine, Black Eyed Susans, Freesias, Foxgloves, Bottle Brush, Heather, Oleander, Rosemary, Sage. It is a good idea to talk to your local gardening centre who can advise of the comprehensive list of rabbit and deer proof plants, trees and shrubs.
There are also products available which can be sprayed on shrubs, trees, bedding plants, herbaceous borders, roses, lawns, fruit and vegetables. These sprays are systemic and the plant absorbs the solution through the leaves which means that it can take a few days to become effective. Sprays of this nature are also effective against pigeons and geese.
BIRDS
Birds can also become a pest in the garden at various times of the year and you would do well to invest in either a net tunnel or a poly tunnel to protect your vulnerable seedlings and crops. There is also a product called Wondermesh which enables you to grow plants and vegetables to their best potential.
GREEN WRIGGLY BUGS & NASTIES
Pests in the vegetable garden usually take the form of green wriggly nasties, but you must remember that some bugs are good and it is a good idea to get your hands on a manual which will tell you which is which. Chemicals used on bugs not only kill the bad bugs , but the good ones as well and also too many chemicals build up an immunity and then we have the SUPERBUGS! There is a brilliant range of products that fights these nasties by using natural enemies - The Nemasys Range
The control of bugs in the vegetable garden is just like good housekeeping. At the end of a season tidy up all plant debris and follow the tidy up with a good dig over which will ensure that any maggots either get killed off by frost or are eaten by the birds. Crop rotation is also very important to eliminate diseases such as white rot and onion fly. Once again Wondermesh is brilliant to help control cabbage fly etc.
GREENHOUSE PESTS
In the greenhouse or conservatory a common pest is White Fly and this pest reduces plant vitality, causes premature leaf drop and ultimately results in the death of the plant. If you have a major outbreak of this pest it will be necessary to disinfect and clean your entire greenhouse or conservatory which will of course mean that you will have to move your plants out for a day or two. Once you have completed the cleaning process it is a good idea to hang up some Sticky Traps which mean a sticky end to flying insects. These traps are pesticide free and so completely safe to use and they last several months.
Aphids and greenfly attack a much wider range of plants in both the greenhouse and outside. Aphids transmit plant viruses, cause stunting and deformities of leaves and stem and cause black mould to appear on the leaves which reduces the plant’s ability to photo synthesis. It is a good idea to attract beneficials to the infested area e.g.ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings and marigolds grown nearby will also help to fight the problem.
Horticultural fleece placed over your brassicas as soon as you transplant them outside will definitely discourage and diminish the actions of Fleabeetles as will regular cultivation of the soil to destroy the eggs and larvae.
These are only of few of the garden pests you will meet in your garden and you would be well advised to approach your local garden centre for advice on how to handle others you may encounter.
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